Deck
Yatsen owns six Chinese beauty brands led by Perfect Diary in color cosmetics and Galenic, DR.WU, and Eve Lom in skincare, selling 85% direct-to-consumer through Tmall, Douyin, RED, and JD.
Second-highest gross margin in beauty, worst marketing intensity in beauty — and FY25 didn't fix it.
- 78% gross margin, -4% operating margin. Cost of goods is 22% of revenue. Selling & marketing eats 66.3%. Every 200 bps off the S&M line on a $614M base is ~$12M to operating profit.
- The S&M ratio moved 60 bps in the best year possible. Revenue grew 26.7%, gross margin hit an all-time high, skincare mix passed 53% — and S&M as % of revenue dropped only from 66.9% to 66.3%. The operating loss compression came almost entirely from the absence of a $55M Eve Lom goodwill hit plus 600 bps of G&A cuts.
- Peers run S&M at 25–45%. e.l.f. 24.7%, Mao Geping 35%, Proya 45%. Yatsen's gross margin (78%) beats all of them. Its marketing intensity (66%) is more than twice e.l.f.'s.
Revenue back to growth, operating loss compressed 77% — and operating cash flow still negative.
Revenue peaked at $919M in FY2021 then fell to $465M by FY2024 as Perfect Diary's color-cosmetics flywheel cooled. FY2025 is the first credible turn — skincare 53% of mix and growing 64% YoY, gross margin at an all-time 78.2%, and Q4 2025 the first quarter to pair positive net income with revenue growth since IPO. The cash statement hasn't caught the income statement: OCF was -$14M in the most operating-leverage-favorable year of the cycle. Cash and short-term investments drained from $876M at end-FY20 to $144M ($151M including restricted cash) — which is why the founder took a $120M convertible in March.
Founder-CEO holds 90.7% of votes on 34.3% of the economics — and the dilution lever is half-pulled.
- Class B super-voting shares. Jinfeng Huang founded Yatsen in 2016 at age 32 after stints as a Guangzhou P&G market research manager (2007-10) and VP at Hunan Yujiahui Cosmetics (2011-16); he later completed a Harvard MBA in 2017. His Class B shares carry 20 votes each. Board, audit committee, comp plan, and related-party approvals serve at his discretion; minorities cannot block any vote.
- $120M founder-affiliated convertible, March 11, 2026. Trustar Capital plus Huang personally co-invest at a $4.63 conversion price — a 20% premium to the announcement, and ~60% above today's $2.89 spot. Warrants struck at $10/ADS. The stock fell roughly 27% in the three weeks after disclosure ($4.22 close on Mar 11 → $3.08 close on Mar 31). NDRC certificate to unlock the 5-year tenor and the second tranche is still pending.
- Related-party purchases climbing. FY25 inventory and services bought from companies under common control: $53M, ~9% of revenue, up 76% over two years (FY23-FY25) while group revenue grew 26% across the same span. Counterparties unnamed. Audit committee chair Sidney Xuande Huang resigned February 28, 2026 for 'personal reasons' — roughly two months before the 20-F filing.
Three dated prints test whether FY25 was the turn or arithmetic.
- May 14, 2026 — Q1 results. Management guide: revenue $141M–$159M (+15–30% YoY). Watchpoints: revenue at the high end, S&M below 65%, and cash flat at $144M. Three of three would meaningfully challenge the 0.20× EV/Sales discount; one of three would leave it intact.
- Mid-June 2026 — 618 shopping festival. No Yatsen brand has appeared on a Tmall or JD top-10 list since 2023; C-beauty momentum has migrated to Douyin. A first top-10 placement for DR.WU or Galenic during 618 would be independent verification that the skincare pivot is pulling external share, not just internal mix.
- Mid-August 2026 — Q2 and the cash read. The first clean post-618 quarter with the convertible's first tranche in the cash and share count. Bull thesis specifies S&M below 62% and trailing-four-quarter OCF approaching positive.
Lean cautious — cheap and inflecting at the headline, but the swing factor for value didn't move in the best year of the cycle.
- For. Skincare mix 33% → 53% in three years and growing 64% YoY. Q4 2025 was the first quarter to pair positive net income with revenue growth since IPO. Gross margin at 78.2% is the second-highest in listed beauty behind only Mao Geping.
- For. 0.20× EV/Sales against a 2.1× peer median; $119M net cash equals 45% of market cap; equity trades below tangible book.
- Against. S&M ratio moved 60 bps in a +27% revenue year. The headline operating loss compression is mechanically traceable to a $55M goodwill non-recurrence plus G&A cuts — not to operating leverage on marketing.
- Against. Cash drained $876M → $144M over five years; OCF negative in five of six. The $120M founder-affiliated convertible reads as forced financing on terms minorities cannot negotiate, with the conversion math still pending NDRC approval.
Watchlist to re-rate: (1) Q1 2026 S&M ratio and operating cash flow; (2) NDRC approval and convertible second-tranche closing; (3) related-party purchases as % of revenue in FY26 interim disclosure.